Day 78: 1000 Miles! - Bye to VA

Day: 78 Miles:  Trip: 19.3 Started: Sam Moore Shelter Destination: 1014.9

Finished the 'Roller Coaster' section today early in the morning.  It turns out it was not that bad at all. The rocks on the descents were the only real thing that made the section even a little harder than the previous trail. On the way out of the section I made a quick stop at the Bears Den hostel.  I did not stay there but it was right on the trail so I stopped in to enjoy a few sodas before pushing on.

Just before the West Virginia border I crossed a nondescript stream that marks the 1000 mile point.  It's hard to believe that I have already done 1000 miles!  The next week or two will be nice as I will have three midway points to celebrate.  In my mind 1000 miles was always rough the half way point way back when 100 miles was a huge milestone. I would often think back at the start how nice it will be to be half way done at 1000 miles.  I can celebrate again at the real half way point of 1093 miles.  This number changes every year however as the trail is re-routed for various reasons.  Because of this the psychological half way point is Harpers Ferry WV.  I will get there tomorrow.

The trail flattened out about half way through the day and I made it into a campsite a little outside of Harpers Ferry by early evening.  A good day of hiking,  I even got to stop at a road crossing for a small walk down to a pizza place for dinner.  In a normal day at home I don't think I would walk 2 miles out of my way for a simple slice of pizza but on the trail its a real nice diversion that is well worth the time and extra miles.

Day 77: The Roller Coaster

Day: 77 Miles: 17.8  Trip: 995.6 Started: 977.8 Destination: Sam Moore Shelter

Got a late start out of the hostel for our shuttle up to the slack pack point that I started from yesterday.  Got started with a few miles of pretty easy trail before hitting the wide open trails of Sky Meadows state park.

A few people had been talking up an upcoming section of the trail called the 'Roller Coaster'.

They described the section as a very difficult and grueling stretch of steep ups and downs.  The trail since Wayensboro has been mostly steady grades with relatively easy climbs and descents.  While I never really look forward to steep trail, I was a little in the mood for something different. After about 10 miles I came on an ominous sign. While I have heard a lot of talk about difficult sections of trail from locals and other hikers this is the first time that an actual warning was posted.  The sign had a hint of sarcasm but perhaps this was truly a legitimate warning.  After a bout 4 miles of this section I decided that it was not really that bad.  We have had many sections like this and for a while in Georgia this was the norm.  Perhaps I have just done enough of the trail now to have the legs to do steep terrain without letting it slow me down all that much.  Even with the 11am start I was able to get into the shelter by about 6pm.  I have the second half of the 'Roller Coaster' tomorrow but I now just think about it as normal.

Day 75: Cicadas are out!

Day: 75 Miles: 17 Trip: 977.8 Started: 977.8 Trico Tower Trail Destination: Front Royal Hostel

Slack packed 17 miles today with B-Rocket and Chin Music.  The Cicadas are out in full force today.  At times they are so loud you can hear their broods a few miles away.  Old Cicadas skins litter the trail all over the place.  This is one of the 17 year cycles where they come out in unusually large numbers.  Slack packing is pretty nice on the knees but I would not want to do it too often.  One nice thing about slack packing going south is that you get to see large numbers of hikers that are slightly ahead of you.  I saw some faces that I had not seen in a week even though they were only 10 miles ahead of me in trail miles. 

Night Rider, B-Rocket, Fatty
taking a little break

Got back to the hostel early and eventually fell asleep on their couch watching a movie.  Kind of felt like home! 

Day 74: Finished with Shanandoha Park

Day: 74 Miles: 10 Trip: 961.3 Started: Gravel Springs Hut Destination: Front Royal Hostel

Today I finally got out of Shanandoha park.  The past two days of trail have been pretty easy going, but not much in the way of views.  I needed to re-supply so I did a short day into the hostel where they shuttle to town for free.  If you stay two nights they offer a free slack pack shuttle.  Chin Music and B-Rocket were already planning on taking advantage of this and I decided to jump on the band wagon.  I wish it was more than 17 miles but any farther and you have to drive around a different section of mountain. 

Day 73: Mary's Rock / Memorial Day

Day: 73 Miles: 17.5 Trip: 951.7 Started: Byrds Nest #3 Destination: Gravel Springs Hut

Pretty easy day today for the most part.  Early in the day I came to the side trail for Mary's Rock.  I would never be able to live with myself if I did not go up to get pictures.  Mary, you have a beautiful rock! I love you and miss you!  Happy Memorial Day!

View from Mary's Rock

 

Day 72: Busy Day

Day: 72 Miles: 23.2 Trip: 934.2 Started: Lewis Mtn Cabins Destination: Byrds Nest #3 Hut

Long day today.  It was nice to start in the campground, I walked over to the camp store and had some microwave fair for breakfast which is just a little better than the normal honey bun or cereal bar.  We all kind of left at different times.  Lentil was still asleep as was B-Rocket.  I got started pretty early so I could have enough time to stop at one of the Wayside pit stops for lunch.

It was really great weather today and the trail was pretty smooth for the most part.  One stretch of trail really reminded me of "The Green Tunnel" everybody keeps talking about.  The green tunnel is a term used by hikers who have gotten bored by the endless monotony of the terrain.  I for one have not had this set in, but the picture here would be my definition of it.

It is memorial day weekend and the day hikers and tourists are out in full force for the holiday weekend.  I had a bit of an ego boost when I passed by a ranger guided tour.  The ranger recognized me (or smelled me coming) as a through hiker and had them all clear the trail as I went by.  I stopped for a quick second and answered a few questions and then politely moved on.  It was a nice little ego boost late in the day.  Some other hikers I have talked to get annoyed at the questions about thru-hiking but I really don't mind it.  Most questions are about logistics and gear and the answers come pretty easy now. 

At about mile 930 I finally saw a bear!  I was told that it would be hard to get through the Shenandoah park without seeing a bear and I was starting to think I might be the exception.  He was sitting on the trail about 200'  feet in front of me when I first saw him.  We saw each other at about the same time and he jumped up and headed deeper into the woods.  He stopped long enough for me to get a quick picture before I gave him his space and moved on.  I can check that  one off the list now!  All in all a great day of hiking.

Day 71: Cold weather

Day: 71 Miles: 11.6 Trip: 911 Started: Rockspring Hut Destination: Lewis Mt. Cabins

Last night it got pretty cold.  Most of us have sent our winter gear home and had a tough time of it.  This year winter just wont go away it seems.  Tonight it is supposed to be just as cold and we collectively decided to shorten our day to stay at one of the park cabin sites.  We planted a note on one of the trail markers for Chin and B-Rocket to see if they wanted to split the cost.  They were eager to take us up on the plan and we all got to the camp ground at about the same time.  Earlier in the day Chin and B-Rocket had met a family out for the weekend who decided to meet up with them at the campground and do a little trail magic.  They served sandwiches, snacks and had a nice fire going.  While we were eating a few more thru hikers came in and we had a nice little group going.  We almost hooked Sunshine into the cabin plan, but she pushed on to the next hut.  Pretty good day despite the low miles.

Day 70

Day: 70 Miles: 21.4 Trip: 899.4 Started: Blackrock Hut Destination: Highttop Hut

Got out today at about 8am today for a 21+ mile day.  One of the nice things about being in the Shanandoa is the prevalence of camp stores and rest stops near skyline drive.  The trail in the park parallels Skyline Drive all the way through the park.  I stopped at one of the camp stores picked up a few supply items and make my way to one of the famous Wayside rest stops for a hot meal with B-Rocket, Chin and Phieffer.  Had a generally laid back day for a 20+ miler and made it into the shelter by 6:15.  The terrain up in the park is definitely some of the easier trail I have been on so far.

Day 69: Reunited with the group

Day: 69 Miles: 13 Trip: 878 Started: Calf Mountain Destination: Blackrock Hut

Started the day a bit late because everybody decided to sleep in.  It strange how shelters work like that sometimes.  If one person gets up early everybody starts to stir and generally gets up at the same time.  I had no reason to get started early so I was fine with sleeping in.  I did a lazy 14 miles to the next shelter.  It threatened to rain late in the day but I was lucky and it held off.

  Lentil and Pheiffer came in to the shelter at about 7.  It was really great to meet up with them again.  We spent the eventing exchanging stories from the past few weeks.  We all agreed to stick together for a while.  I got some bad news that Zen whom we hiked with for the first 300 miles or so was off the trail.  The general consensus was that he just got a bit burnt out.  I am sorry that he did not make it and hope to see him out for some section hiking later in the year.

Day 68: Back on trail 45 lbs. lighter

Day: 68 Miles: 7 Trip: 865 Started: Rockfish Gap  Destination: Calf Mountain Shelter

Back on the trail after a long seven day break.  I really missed Mary and it was great to be back home for a few days.  She tried to convince me to wait until Memorial Day but that would have been just too long. It was hard to say goodbye again, but I only have about three months to go.  I hope she can come out a bit in PA and I will of course get to see her more when I get up to NJ.  While at home I weighed in and found that I have already lost 45 lbs!  I knew I had lost a bit of weight but had no idea it was so much.  The trail is indeed a good weight loss plan!

I chose to get back on at Rockfish Gap near Waynsboro because my friends were only a day away.  I decided to do two short days so they could catch up.  Its strange how fast I lost my momentum during the break and getting going was a bit slow.  I still got into the shelter very early and spent the afternoon talking to some section hikers in for the week from Virginia.  Later in the night it started to thunder and lightning pretty hard.  Chin Music and B-Rocket came wandering out of the darkness at about 9:30pm.  I had seen them both very early on in GA but not since.  They were soaked and glad to be out of the lightning.  We made room in the shelter and finally got to sleep at about 10pm.  It felt good to be back on the trail again.

I finally have to replace my first set of shoes (Vasque Mindbeners).  The first pair made it almost 800 miles, pretty good for trail runners!  I had great luck with the first pair and decided to just get another pair.

Day 67: Getting off trail for a few days

Day: 67 Miles: 9.4 Trip: 723.5 Started: Lamberts Meadow Sh. Destination: Daleville VA.

I have to get off trail for a few days to go to Graduation back home.  Mary is coming down to pick me up tomorrow and I thought it would be easier to stop at Daleville right next to the interstate.  As it turns out my sister Michelle who lives in Virginia was able to come down and take me back to Winchester.  This will save about three hours of driving for Mary.  It was nice to spend the night and next day with family.  In order to end up in Daleville on the 13th I streched the last 25 miles out over two days and had a nice early finish yesterday.  I miss Mary and am looking forward to being home for a few days.  As much fun as the hike can be at times, it is mostly a lot of work.  It's strange, but going back home will almost be like a vacation from my...vacation.

When I get back on trail I might bump up to Waynsboro to stay on pace with friends on the trail.  If I do this I will come back after Maine and make up the week that I will miss down here.  This will break up the long stretch in Va. and I will most likely go this route.

Day 66: McAfee Knob & Tinker Cliffs

Day: 65 Miles: 16.3 Trip: 714.1 Started: Four Pines Hostel Destination: Lamberts Meadow Sh.

The weather man got it right today and the clouds are gone.  I started a bit late but did not mind as I had a slightly shorter day planned.  I got up to the VA311 crossing at about 11am and started the trail up to McAfee Knob.  It was Sunday and the day hikers were out in droves.  There is a parking lot at 311 and its only about 4 miles up to the top of the ridge.  At the top I met up with Hancock and Gypsy who I have not seen for about a week.  I also caught up with Not Yet and Sunshine who had stayed at the hostel.  We all took turns taking pictures and had a quick lunch hunkered down in the rocks to avoid the wind.  The weather was perfect and I am glad I waited a day.  This is one of the rare places that was exactly as I had imagined it. 

A few miles later I got up to Tinker Cliffs.  I actually think Tinker Cliffs offer a better view than McAfee.  Another nice thing about this area is that is a little farther away from the very touristy McAfee Knob.

Tinker Cliffs.  McAfee Knob in the background to the left

Day 65

Day: 65 Miles: 6.7 Trip: 697.8 Started: Pickle Branch Sh. Destination: Four Pines Hostel

Well, the rain continues to come down.  McAfee Knob and Tinker cliffs are one of the highlights I was looking forward too and I really did not want to hit them on a rainy day.  I decided to do a real short day and stay at the Four Pines Hostel to wait out the rain.  The forecast promised good weather tomorrow and I thought it was worth the short day.   I am glad that I decided to stay at Four Pines, its one of the those placed on the trail that will remember most.  The hostel is run by Joe Mitchell and he is a welcoming and friendly as can be.  The hostel itself is in his three bay garage complete with tools, work benches and oil stains.   There are a large assortment of sofas and lounge furniture to sleep on.  At first this might seem a little sparse, but its all you really need.  When I first arrived his sons were even in the middle of the 'hostel / garage' changing the oil in their quads.  I really enjoyed my stay here and highly recommend it to anybody else passing through.  Later that night Joe drove a few of us (Not Yet, Sunshine, Catch22) down to the Homeplace Restaurant.  This is a great place.  Food is served family style and is all you can eat for just $15 ea.
 

Day 64

Day: 64 Miles: 22.5 Trip: 691.1 Started: Laurel Creek Sh. Destination: Pickle Branch Sh.

Not much all that exiting as far as terrain goes for the past few days.  I started out in some nice open valleys before starting some longer ridge walks.  The ridge line had fair views but nothing as good as we have seen so far.  For now the weather is holding up but it is supposed to rain tonight and tomorrow.  On top of Brush Mt, I was able to take a short break and visit the Audie Murphy Monument dedicated to the most decorated soldier of World War II.

The rain set in up on top of Brush Mt. and just as I started the decent it started to get pretty heavy.  I'm thankful it held out as long as it did, but I still came into the shelter soaked.  Oh well.  No pain, no rain, no Maine!

One highlight of the day was seeing the Kiefer Oak.  Its the oldest Oak tree on the trail and only second oldest to Dover Oak in NY.  Its 300+ years old and over 18 ft. around its trunk.  I hope it lasts 300 more.


Tomorrow I was originally going to make it over McAfee Knob and Tinker Cliffs but with the rain I might do a short day tomorrow and take advantage of good weather the next day.  I'm on my own for now but hope to catch a few friends up at McAfee Knob.

Day 62

Day: 62 Miles: 20 Trip: 650.1 Started: Pearisburg VA Destination: Pine Swamp Shelter

Well, I spent two zeros in Pearisburg.  Over the past two weeks my shoes have really started to break down.  My insoles are completely worn through and I have a few holes in the uppers.  Before Pearisburg I started to get a nasty deep blister right behind my right toes.  I decided to stay the extra days to let this heal up while I waited out the rain.  On the morning of the 8th it was still raining pretty steady but I could not wait any longer.  I set out in a steady rain with my foot feeling quite a bit better.  I have to get off trail on the 14th and I am trying to push my shoes until then.  Later in the day the rain finally broke and I was able to finish under somewhat dryer conditions.  No pictures today, just too rainy.

Day 58

Day: 57 Miles: 10.4 Trip: 630.8 Started: Woods Hole Hostel  Destination: Pearisburg VA

Stayed at a true gem on the AT last night, the Woods Hole Hostel.  This is a great place with a long history of serving AT hikers.  They have a nice bunkhouse with everything you need, but the best thing is the warm and friendly atmosphere.  This is one of the few hostels that I would go out of my way for in order to just stay again.  I did not have dinner, but the bunk house for a night and breakfast was only $20, a great deal. Someday it wold be nice to come back here with Mary.  Only 10 miles today, stopping in at Pearisburg to re-supply and possibly take a zero day.

 

Day 57: Happy birthday to me!

Day: 57 Miles: 21.4 Trip: 620.4 Started: Jenny Knob Shelter Destination: Woods Hole Hostel

So far there have been very few spots to close to the trail to just "stop in" for for something to eat.  Today I went by Trents Grocery.  Nothing really special about this place except that it is close to the trail.  After going over the Kiberling Creek suspension bridge I headed over to Trent's for a hot breakfast.  It was a really nice treat to get breakfast on the trail.  I decided it would be my birthday present to myself.  This is the third day in a row of grey skies.  Its time for some sun!  Staying at Woods Hole Hostel tonight.

Day 56

Day: 56 Miles: 23.8 Trip: 599 Started: Jenkins Shelter Destination: Jenny Knob Shelter

The weather continues to be overcast.  Still hiking with Zman, Trucker and Navigator.  The trail through this section is pretty level and I had an easy wide ridge line.  The trees are starting to bloom but it still does not feel like spring yet.  What a strange spring, winter is still holding on just a little. Had a good day and did 24 miles.  Nothing of note as far as views go.

Day 55: Happy May Day

Day: 55 Miles: 19.1 Trip: 575.1 Started: Knot Maul Branch Shelter Destination: Jenkins Shelter

Overcast and grey today but the temperatures are in the low 60's and its a perfect day for hiking.  I need to start pushing a little harder so I have decided to do 20+ for the next few days. Hiking loosely with Trucker and ZMan and Navigator who I met up with yesterday.  Had good views from the top of Chestnut Knob, but for the most part the persistent brown forest is the norm.